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Мастер-класс по лепке рук авторской куклы из паперклея |
Руки многое говорят о человеке. И авторской кукле тоже необходимо слепить достойные руки. Бывают руки каркасные — когда в средине пальчиков находится проволока. Бывают руки цельнолепные. Беда цельнолепных рук в том, что пальчики ломаются в самый неподходящий момент. Хотя для этого подходящих моментов не бывает.
Мастер-класс по изготовлению цельнолепных кистей рук перед вами.
Нам понадобится :
папереклей
стеки
бумага
карандаш
вода
Метки: лепка ручки |
ПРО КУКЛУ РАССКАЖУ |
http://umamsu.livejournal.com/75735.html
А помните, я рассказывала, что пошла на курсы по созданию будуарной куклы? А?
Показывать буду теперь.
Это, собственно то, с чего все началось. Пенопласт и канцелярский нож.
Метки: куклы лепка |
Куклы из папье-маше |
Метки: папье-маше лепка |
Куклы из папье-маше |
Метки: авторские куклы лепка папье-маше |
как лепить губки |
Метки: лепка |
Очень подробный МК по кукольной ножке |
Стащила отсюда http://members.home.nl/asrai/cursus-en.htm
The foot in this tutorial is from heel to big toe about 1.8 inch long. Always use the head as a comparison for the size of the feet. The length of the feet is equal to the size of the head. |
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In this tutorial I will only make the right foot. Try to work simultaneously on both feet because it is hard to make an equal looking foot afterwards. You start off by making a 2.5 inch long cylinder shaped roll of clay, about 0.8 inch thick (pict. 1). Bend the roll of clay in an angle like in pict. 2. The top will become a part leg and the other part the foot. |
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Flatten the clay by pressing it together between thumb and point finger towards the 'toes'. Be careful not to make it too flat. (pict. 3 + 4). | |
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Now it is time to form the heel. Push/smear some clay from under the foot backwards (towards the heel) and push/smear some clay from the lower leg down (towards the heel) (pict. 5). This way you'll get more clay on the heel and a better shape at the sole of the foot. Press the clay with your thumb on the inside of the foot to make it more hollow (pict. 6). |
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Before you can make incisions for the toes, the front of the foot needs to be reshaped a bit. Cut off a piece of clay slantwise starting at the 'big toe' (pict. 7). After this smooth the edge with your fingers (pict. 8). |
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Look at the foot to see if it's not too thick, if it is you can make it thinner by smearing the clay from the instep to the leg. You can also smear clay upwards just above the heel towards the leg, this way the foot will become slimmer (pict. 9). Sculpt as smooth as possible, use a damp finger to rub the clay for a smooth finish. Now you can make incisions for the toes with the help of a sharp tool. Don't forget the big toe needs to be bigger than the other toes (pict. 10). |
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Spread out the toes gently so you have more working space (pict. 11). Hold the toes one by one between your point finger and thumb. While warming the clay by the warmth of your hands, very gently roll the toes slightly back and forth, so the inside of the toes will also become round. This will probably make the toes become too long but that doesn't matter (pict. 12). When the toes have the right thickness and are nice and round, you can cut them off at the right size. Smooth the edges of the toes with your fingers. |
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You can use a sculpting tool for the areas that are difficult to reach, like between the toes (pict. 13). If everything is nice and smooth, we are ready to make the nails (pict. 14). |
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You could use the small hollow chisel again as I used in the hands lesson, but this time I will sculpt the lines by hand. For this I used a sharp sculpting tool, the one in pict. 10. You could also use a small knife (not too sharp). Press left and right from the 'nail' a straight line in the clay (pict. 15). Now you have to connect those two lines, this is a very precise work. You could also use a sharp wooden toothpick for this (pict. 16). They start to look more and more like real nails. |
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Some polymer clay brands can become overworked, it can become too soft. So at this time I gave the nails some rest and focused on the sole of the foot. Halfway each toe I draw a line on the inside, except the small and the great toe (pict. 17) The nails weren't finished yet. We also have to connect the lines at the front of the toe with a sharp tool, as you can see in pict. 18. |
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Draw lines on the 'knuckle' area of the toes with a small sculpting tool or toothpick , the same way as I did in the hands tutorial. This makes it look more natural (pict. 19). The sole of the foot needs some more modeling. Place 3 slices of clay on the heel, ball and big toe, like in pict. 20, carefully blend the seams with your sculpting tool or fingers until the seams are blended in with the sole. |
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Moisten your finger and polish everything smooth.This also works for removing unwanted fingerprints. At pict. 21 you can see a sideview of the foot, it looks much better now because of the modeling we did at the sole of the foot. Use a sculpting tool or rubbertip brush to add lines to accentuate the tendons/bones of the foot (pict. 22). |
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Rub the lines with a wet finger to blur and make it look more natural (pict. 23). Now it's time to make the knuckles on the ankles. Before you start check out the foot from all sides to see if it still looks okay (pict. 24). |
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Pay attention to the ankle area that it is not too fat. If it is you still have the chance now to sculpt it slimmer (pict. 25). Place a small slice of clay on both sides of the ankle where the knuckle should be. Study your own foot to see how this looks (pict. 26). |
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Blend the seams with a sculpting tool (pict. 27), don't blend it too wide because it wouldn't look like bone anymore. Just blend only the edges. Gently rub over the knuckles with a slightly wet finger to make it smooth (pict. 28). |
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The foot is almost ready now. Before curing check the feet from all sides and correct any mistakes, don't forget the sole of the feet (pict. 29 + 30). |
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Cut off the leg at about 1.40 inch. Use a wooden toothpick to make a hole in the leg, make sure it's deep enough, about 0.80 inch. Twist the stick a little to make the holes wider so it will fit the armature. I use a small wooden board with big nails through it, as a stand to place the feet on (pict. 31). I pre-heat the oven at 220-266 Fahrenheit and bake the feet for about 30 minutes. Always use an oven thermometer to make sure the oven is at the right temperature, because if it gets too hot the polymer clay may turn yellow/brown. Leave the feet to cool in the oven before you take them out (pict. 32). |
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After cooling down I made it a little smoother by sanding the clay with a polishing sponge. Sometimes rubbing it with a soft cloth is enough. If there are any small scratches visible, you can gently touch them with some acetone on a brush and usually they disappear. Use very little acetone because too much can give white spots on the clay! Next step is painting and coloring the foot. This can be done by either acrylics, watercolor paint or water- or oil based patina. For this foot I use watercolor paint and acrylic paint (pict. 33). First I rub the clay in with some skin powder make-up to give it a warmer tone. The color of the nails was created by blending different shades of watercolor paint. I use a thin paintbrush to apply the paint, I paint the nails several times, letting it dry in between coats. This paint is transparent and doesn't really stick to the clay. So you need to do this a few times, some of the paint's pigment will be absorbed by the clay, just enough for a natural color (pict. 34). |
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I mix white acrylic paint with a bit black or yellow to get an off-white shade. With a very thin painting brush I paint the 'half moons' and the 'nail borders' (pict. 35). After the paint is dry I add some Fimo gloss varnish (not the water-based one) to finish the nails (pict. 36). I like this varnish a lot, it will not turn yellow and even after several years it will still look glossy. Now the foot is finished...! (pict. 37) |
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You can now attach the feet to the armature. If the hole in the leg is too wide you can add some papertape to the wire for a better fit. Later on you can use some glue (for instance hot glue gun) to attach them permanently.
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The best moment for this depends on the kind of clothes he or she will be wearing. Sometimes it is easier dressing the doll, if the feet can still be detached from the legs. | |
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Метки: лепка ножки |
Очень подробный МК по кукольной ручке |
Опять с заграничного сайта! Ну очень подробно!!!!!!!! Стащила отсюда! Классный сайт по куклам! http://members.home.nl/asrai/cursus-en.htm
The hand I made for this lesson is from the palm of the hand to the finger tips about 1.80 inch. It is a bit bigger than I usually make, smaller gave some photographic problems 'cause I don't have a macro lens. |
Метки: лепка ручки |
Голова куклы из папье -маше |
Метки: лепка папье-маше |
Лепим лицо (мастер-класс) |
Автор Дяченко Оксана
Предлагаю слепить подобные стилизованные мордашки, чтобы в дальнейшем использовать их для декора.
Мне они понадобятся для создания елочных игрушек. Я хочу сделать сувенирные елочки-подвески, снежинки, цветочки, например, такие:
Метки: лепка кукольное личико |
Авторская кукла. Елена Ступа |
Дневник |
Метки: авторские куклы лепка |
МК Анастасии:) |
Дневник |
Метки: лепка зайка |
Голова для куклы |
Метки: лепка кукольная головка |
МК "Старый ворон". Часть 1. Лепка |
Начинаю выкладывать МК по лепке "Старого Ворона". Процесс достаточно долгий (увы, сушка), а шагов много. Поэтому буду частями делать, уж не обессудьте... Итак:
Метки: лепка |
Мягкотелая барышня (выкройка) |
Метки: куклы лепка |
кукла из паперклея = мастер класс |
Метки: куклы лепка каркасная кукла |
Изготовление кукол, МК Кондрашовой Ирины |
Добрый день! На днях у меня появился очень интересный заказ, автор идеи-заказчица, я только исполнитель. Признаюсь честно-я наслаждалась этой работой! А под конец так сама привязалась к обоим куколкам, что прям жаль расставаться… Но заказ-есть заказ)))Я очень надеюсь, что правильно воплотила образ, который мне так подробно описали. Ну хватит слов, лучше смотрите! Ростик около 20см, проволочный каркас, все гнется, пластика-Цернит+Ливинг Долл, волосики мохер, мной крашеный в этот оттенок. Полностью ручная работа, моя работа)))) Добро пожаловать к нам в гости!
Метки: куклы лепка каркасная кукла |
кукольные личики |
Метки: лепка кукольные лица |
Скрап-цветок из полимерной глины |
Рада приветствовать вас на страницах моего дневника!
Ну кто сказал, что цветы для скрап-работ нельзя делать из полимерной глины? Очень даже запросто. Посмотрите, каким чудесным цветком украсила скрап-страничку талантливая мастерица Габриэлла, автор шикарного скрап-ресурса Such a Pretty Mess. Мастерица использовала запекаемую глину и тонирование порошком и акриловыми красками. Приятного просмотра!
Метки: лепка цветы из пластмассы |
Декорируем булавки |
Продолжаем осваивать пластику. Вот урок от Юли Большая медведица
Очень мне нравятся булавочки с розовыми бутонами, если вам тоже, приступаем к делу!
Метки: лепка роза |
Улучшенный рецепт холодного фарфора |
Метки: лепка холодный фарфор |