Object types brooch Materials sapphire ruby gold Production place Made in Flanders Made in Belgium (?) Made in France (?) Place (findspot) Found/Acquired Meuse, River Date 15thC Description Cluster brooch; gold; central sapphire setting; three rubies; diamond centred on breast of female figure in robe with scalloped sleeves. She frames the central sapphire with her hands. Her figure is surrounded by beads of gold set on high stems and three rubies. Pin and loop on back. Her face and hands are keyed for white enamel of which traces can be seen on one of her cheeks. Originally there would have been two pearls, the fitting for one of which sruvives, and beads of white enamel in the pierced setting on the lower edge of the jewel.
Materials gold ( enamel copper Techniques painted gilded enamelled ( Production place Made in Italy (North) Date 15thC(late) Description Painted enamel medallion; copper, circular; set in a modern gilt metal frame; portrait bust, to right, of a woman with long free flowing hair and a ring of pearls around the crown of her head; inscribed; painted in white and gilding on translucent enamel over brilliant red, blue and gold coloured foils; counter enamel a brilliant semi-translucent blue.
Inscriptions Inscription Type: inscription Inscription Position: face Inscription Language: Latin Inscription Content: ISIPHILE REGINA LEMNI
Dimensions Diameter: 5.5 centimetres
pendant cameo Materials onyx gold Techniques engraved Production person Engraved by Caradosso (?) Engraved by Domenico dei Cammei (?) Production place Engraved in Italy (?) Date 15thC(late) (?) Description Cameo; onyx; bust to right of Giangaleazzo Maria Sforza, Duke of Milan (died 1494); within oval gold frame decorated with floral scrolls and suspension loop at top.
Dimensions Length: 3.6 centimetres
Materials sardonyx gold Techniques engraved Production person Engraved by Thomas Pigne (?) Production place Engraved in France (?) Date 15thC(late) Description Cameo; sardonyx; bust of René of Anjou, Duke of Anjou and Lorraine and Count of Provence, to right wearing a coat with fur collar, and hat with upturned edges and feather, over a skull-cap; in modern gold pendant mount.
France (probably, made) England (possibly, made) Date: ca. 1400 (made) Artist/Maker:
Unknown Materials and Techniques: Gold
This heart-shaped brooch with its romantic inscription was given as a token of love. It would have been used to fasten a tunic, gown or cloak. Gold was the most costly of metals, generally used only by royalty and the nobility. It is inscribed and would have formerly been enamelled on the reverse in French, in black letter script, ‘Ourselves and all things at your whim’ ('Nostre et tout ditz a vostre desier'). The design on the front of the brooch, possibly stylised leaves and flowers or feathers, would also have been colourfully enamelled.
Ring brooches often fastened garments with a slit at the neck. Both men and women used them. They first pulled the fabric through the ring. They then pushed the pin horizontally through the fabric. When they pulled the fabric back through the ring, it held the pin in place.