Одна инструкция на англ. а вторая на немецком, но с хорошим объяснением, так что гуглтранслейт вам в помощь =)

http://amigurumi.myblog.de/ - замечательный блог, с примерами как вязать игрушки амигурами... на немецком языке

http://freeamigurumipatterns.wordpress.com/ - множество разных амигурами, инструкции по вязанию на англ. обычно

http://a-crochet-ninja.blogspot.com/2010/04/grr.html - ещё один дракошка, не хочу копировать, так что заходите и читайте непосредственно у автора =) у нее много всего интересного есть=)

This was one of my very first amigurumi pattterns, inspired by my love of dragons, and a result of my not being able to find an easy pattern for a small crocheted dragon.

This pattern is also one of my most popular, and I am delighted to find it is still going strong. There are baby dragons all over the world now, with my pattern translated into french, german and who knows what other languages! I originally posted it on Crochetville.org.

Materials List

Bulky yarn (I used Bernat Softee Chunky for my baby snow dragon) But reall, any yarn can be used for this pattern, just adjust your hook size accordingly.
"G" hook
tapestry or darning needle to sew pieces together
stitch markers (or a piece of yarn or thread to mark ends of rounds)
two post eyes or buttons, or for young children, eyes could be embroidered on

fiberfill or stuffing material

Finished Size

Depends on the yarn and hook size used.

Gauge

Not important.

Notes

Abbreviations used:
sc = single crochet
st = stitch
ss = slip stitch
inc = increase (do 2 single crochets in one stitch)

dec = decrease ( insert hook into first stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the two loops on your hook)

The Pattern

Head

As amigurumi is made in spirals, do not join rounds. Use a stitch marker or a piece of thread or yarn to mark the end of your rounds.

Start 6 sc in a magic ring. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc (inc) in each st around (12 sc)
Rnd 3 -6 : work even, no inc or dec (12 sc)
Rnd 7: 2 sc (inc) in each of the first 6 st, sc in each of remaining 6 sc (18 sc) (This starts to form the forehead ridge)
Rnd 8: sc in each of the first 8 st, 2 sc (inc) in the next 2 st, sc in the remaining 8 st (20 sc)
Rnd 9 - 11: work even, no inc or dec (20 sc)
Rnd 12: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 3 st* repeat from * to * around (16 sc)
Rnd 13:*sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 2 st* repeat from * to * around (12 sc)
Rnd 14: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next st* repeat from * to * around (8 sc)

ss in next st and fasten off, leaving a long tail for closing and sewing.

BODY

Start 4 sc in a magic ring. (4 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc (inc) in each st around (8 sc)
Rnd 3 -5 : work even, no inc or dec (8 sc)
Rnd 6: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (12 sc)
Rnd 7 - 8: work even, no inc or dec (12 sc)
Rnd 9: *1 sc in first 2 st, 2 sc (inc) in third st* repeat from * to * around. (16 sc)
Rnd 10:*1 sc in first 3 st, 2 sc (inc) in fourth st* repeat from * to * around. (20 sc)
Rnd 11: *1 sc in first 4 st, 2 sc (inc) in fifth st* repeat from * to * around. (24 sc)
Rnd 12: *1 sc in first 5 st, 2 sc (inc) in sixth st* repeat from * to * around. (28 sc)
Rnd 13 - 16: work even, no inc or dec (28 sc)
Rnd 17: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 5 st* repeat from * to * around ( 24 sc)
Rnd 18: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 4 st* repeat from * to * around ( 20 sc)
Rnd 19:*sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 3 st* repeat from * to * around ( 16 sc)
Rnd 20: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 2 st* repeat from * to * around ( 12 sc)

Rnd 21: *sc first 2 st together (dec)* repeat from * to * around. (6 sc) ss in next st and fasten off, leaving a long tail for closing and sewing.

TAIL

Start 3 sc in a magic ring (3 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc (inc) in each st around (6 sc)
Rnd 3: work even, no inc or dec (6 sc)
Rnd 4: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (9 sc)
Rnd 5: work even, no inc or dec (9 sc)
Rnd 6: *1 sc in first 2 st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (12 sc)
Rnd 7: work even, no inc or dec (12 sc)
Rnd 8: *1 sc in first 3 st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (15 sc)
Rnd 9: work even, no inc or dec (15 sc)
Rnd 10: *1 sc in first 4 st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (18 sc)
Rnd 11: work even, no inc or dec (18 sc)
Rnd 12: *1 sc in first 5 st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (21 sc)

Rnd 13 - 15: work even, no inc or dec (21 sc) At the end of rnd 15, ss in next st and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

FEET (Make 2)

Start 4 sc in a magic ring. (4 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc (inc) in each st around (8 sc)
Rnd 3: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (12 sc)
Rnd 4 - 6: work even, no inc or dec (12 sc)
Rnd 7: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next st* repeat from * to * around (8 sc)

Rnd 8: work even, no inc or dec. (8 sc) ss in next st, and fasten off, leaving a long tail for closing and sewing.

ARMS (Make 2)

Start 6 sc in a magic ring. (6 sc)
Rnd 2 - 6: work even, no inc or dec (6 sc)
Rnd 7: *1 sc in first 2 st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (8 sc)
Rnd 8 - 9: work even, no inc or dec (8 sc)

Rnd 10: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 2 st* repeat from * to * around (6 sc) ss in next st and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

EARS AND SPINES (Make 5)

Start 4 sc in a magic ring. (4 sc)
Rnd 2: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (6 sc)
Rnd 3: *1 sc in first 2 st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (8 sc)
Rnd 4: *1 sc in first 3 st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (10 sc)

Rnd 5: work even, no inc or dec (10 sc) ss in next st, and fasten off, leaving a long tail for closing and sewing.

Weave long tail through the last row of two of these pieces and gather, these are the ears.

The other 3 pieces fold flat (to look like a triangle) and are sewn on the back for the spines.

EYELIDS (Make 2)

6 sc in a magic ring. This is the exception to working in spirals. At the end of this round, chain one, and turn
Rnd 2: sc in each st around (6 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing

ASSEMBLY DIRECTIONS:

It's easiest for me to pin my body parts into place before sewing them, to make sure they're balanced and in the correct position.

Sew eye lids into place on the head, then attach eyes. Stuff head, and weave yarn through last row of stitches in the back of the head, gathering to close. (I run the yarn down the back of the head to use to sew the head to the neck) Set aside.

Stuff body and neck. Weave yarn through last row of stitches on the bottom of the body, gathering to close. Fasten off, and weave in end.

Stuff feet, and weave yarn though the last row of stitches to gather closed. Use remaining yarn to attach feet to the bottom of the body.

Stuff tail, position on the back of the body, and sew into place.

Stuff only the bottom of the arms, and sew into place on the body. (I positioned them folded across the belly of my dragon to pose him, and sewed them into place.)

Sew head onto body. Position ears on head and sew into place.

Sew spines in a line down the back of the dragon.

A good tutorial for making a magic ring can be found here:

http://crochetme.com/Dec_Jan_0405/reads_round.html

If you're not comfortable with using a magic ring, you can also start with the traditional method (chain two and work appropriate numbers of sc into second chain from the hook) but I find it leaves too big a hole for my tastes.

 

 

Material:

- Garn (ich bevorzuge Baumwollgarn mit 125er LL)
- entsprechende Häkelnadel (ich benutze eine 2.5er)
- Wollnadel und ein paar Stecknadeln
- Perlen für die Augen
- Füllwatte

verwendete Abkürzungen:

M = Masche
LM = Luftmasche
fM = feste Masche
KM = Kettmasche
zus = zusammenhäkeln

Vorbemerkung:

Wenn nicht anders beschrieben, wird das Amigurumi in Spiralrunden gehäkelt, ohne KM am Ende.
Damit man nicht durcheinander kommt, empfiehlt es sich den Rundenanfang mit einem Maschenmarkierer, einem Faden oder ähnlichem zu markieren.


Los geht's:

Kopf

1. Runde: Gestartet wird wieder mit dem "Magic Ring " in den ihr 6 fM häkelt, oder mit 2 LM, und in die 2. davon werden die 6 fM gehäkelt.
2. Runde: in jede M der Vorrunde 2 fM häkeln (= 12M)
3-6. Runde: 12 fM
7. Runde: jew. 2 fM in die ersten 6 M, fM in die übrigen 6M (= 18M)
8. Runde: fM in die ersten 8 M, die nächsten beiden M verdoppeln, fM in die übrigen 8M (= 20M)
9-11. Runde: 20 fM
12. Runde: *2 M zus, fM in die nächsten 3 M* wiederholen bis zum Ende (= 16M)
13. Runde: *2 M zus, fM in die nächsten 2 M* wiederholen bis zum Ende (= 12M)
nach dieser Runde den Kopf mit Füllwatte ausstopfen;
14. Runde: *2 M zus, fM in die nächste M* wiederholen bis zum Ende (= 8M)
KM in die nächste Masche und Faden durchziehen; langes Ende zum Annähen hängen lassen


Körper

1. Runde: 4 fM in Magic Ring oder LM
2. Runde: alle M verdoppeln (= 8M)
3-5. Runde: 8 fM
6. Runde: jede 2.M verdoppeln (= 12M)
7-8. Runde: 12 fM
9. Runde: jede 3.M verdoppeln (= 16M)
10. Runde: jede 4.M verdoppeln (= 20M)
11. Runde: jede 5.M verdoppeln (= 24M)
12. Runde: jede 6.M verdoppeln (= 28M)
13-16. Runde: 28 fM
17. Runde: *2 M zus, fM in die nächsten 5 M* wiederholen bis Ende (= 24M)
18. Runde: *2 M zus, fM in die nächsten 4 M* wiederholen bis Ende (= 20M)
19. Runde: *2 M zus, fM in die nächsten 3 M* wiederholen bis Ende (= 16M)
20. Runde: *2 M zus, fM in die nächsten 2 M* wiederholen bis Ende (= 12M)
nach dieser Runde den Körper mit Füllwatte ausstopfen;
21. Runde: *2 M zus* wiederholen bis Ende (= 6M)
KM in die nächste Masche und Faden durchziehen; langes Ende zum Annähen hängen lassen


Schwanz

1. Runde: 3 fM in Magic Ring oder LM
2. Runde: alle M verdoppeln (= 6M)
3. Runde: 6 fM
4. Runde: jede 2.M verdoppeln (= 9M)
5. Runde: 9 fM
6. Runde: jede 3.M verdoppeln (= 12M)
7. Runde: 12 fM
8. Runde: jede 4.M verdoppeln (= 15M)
9. Runde: 15 fM
10. Runde: jede 5.M verdoppeln (= 18M)
11. Runde: 18 fM
12. Runde: jede 6.M verdoppeln (= 21M)
13-15. Runde: 21 fM
KM in die nächste Masche und Faden durchziehen; langes Ende zum Annähen hängen lassen; ausstopfen;


Beine (2 mal häkeln)

1. Runde: 4 fM in Magic Ring oder LM
2. Runde: alle M verdoppeln (= 8M)
3. Runde: jede 2.M verdoppeln (= 12M)
4-6. Runde: 12 fM
7. Runde: *2 M zus, fM in die nächste M* wiederholen bis Ende (= 8M)
8. Runde: 8 fM
KM in die nächste Masche und Faden durchziehen; langes Ende zum Annähen hängen lassen; ausstopfen;


Arme (2 mal häkeln)

1. Runde: 6 fM in Magic Ring oder LM
2-6. Runde: 6 fM
7. Runde: jede 3.M verdoppeln (= 8M)
8-9. Runde: 8 fM
nach dieser Runde den Arme (nur unten) mit Füllwatte ausstopfen;
10. Runde: *2 M zus, fM in die nächsten 2 M* wiederholen bis Ende (= 6M)
KM in die nächste Masche und Faden durchziehen; langes Ende zum Annähen hängen lassen;


Ohren und Stacheln (5 mal häkeln)

1. Runde: 4 fM in Magic Ring oder LM
2. Runde: jede 2.M verdoppeln (= 6M)
3. Runde: jede 3.M verdoppeln (= 8M)
4. Runde: jede 4.M verdoppeln (= 10M)
5. Runde: 10 fM
KM in die nächste Masche und Faden durchziehen; langes Ende zum Annähen hängen lassen
Für die Ohren bei 2 Teilen den Faden durch die untere Reihe weben, und etwas zusammenziehen, die restlichen 3 werden als Stacheln an den Schwanz genäht.


Augenlider (2 mal häkeln)

1. Runde: 6fm in Magic Ring oder LM
2. Runde: 6 fM
Faden durchziehen; langes Ende zum Annähen hängen lassen


Fertigstellung:

Am besten die Körperteile zuerst mit Stecknadeln zusammensetzen, damit sie in der richtigen Position sind.

Die Augenlider an den Kopf nähen und Augenperlen einfügen. Die Kopföffnung zunähen, Faden hängen lassen.
Hals eventuell noch etwas mehr mit Watte füllen, damit die Verbindung zum Kopf nicht zu wackelig wird und Öffnung zunähen, Faden nach innen bringen.
Beine ausstopfen (am hinteren Ende nicht zu fest), Loch schließen und mit dem übrigen Faden an den Körper nähen.
Schwanz ausstopfen, mit Stecknadeln am Körper befestigen und annähen.
Die Arme nur unten ausstopfen und am Körper annähen.
Kopf am Körper festnähen, die Ohren mit Stecknadeln positionieren und festnähen.
Die Stacheln in einer Linie am Rücken und Schwanz gleichmäßig verteilt festnähen.

Fertig!

Опять же, времени нет перевести, но информацией хочется поделиться=) перевод обещаю позже=) по мере разгруженности...

 

He's about 6 inches tall and 7 inches long. I overstuffed his head a bit, and his wings have some pieces of pipe cleaner in them (but I don't think it worked too well). Made up the pattern myself, and it was a pain in the butt!

 

I plan to improve this pattern by re-making the arms/feet to make them less complicated and also change the body shape, but that may take awhile so here is what I have so far.

Now the pattern! I'm still kind of proud for actually writing it down, but be warned! I have a habit of making things a lot more complicated than they should be, so some of the pieces are a bit tricky (or just totally weird!)  . You have been warned. Also, if something comes out a bit wonky or doesn't resemble the piece in the photos please tell me...I probably re-did that piece and forgot to change the pattern.

Head
R1: 6 sc
R2: inc each sc (12)
R3: *inc, sc 1* around (18)
R4: *inc, sc 2* around (24)
R5: *inc, sc 3* around (30)
R6: *inc, sc 4* around (36)
R7: *inc, sc 5* around (42)
R8-R16: sc around (42)
R17: *inc, sc 6* around (48)
R18: sc around (48)
R19: *dec, sc 6* around (42)
R20: *dec, sc 5* around (36)
R21: *dec, sc 4* around (30)
R22: *dec, sc 1* around (20)
R23: *dec* around (10)

Snout
R1: 6 sc
R2: *inc* around (12)
R3: *sc 2, inc* around (16)
R4: sc 3, [sc, ch3, sc] in same sc, sc 2, [sc, ch3, sc] in same stitch, sc 9 (18)
R5: sc 3, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 9 (16)
R6: sc around (16)

Ears (make 2)
R1: ch 7, turn
R2: In fourth sc from hook [tc 3, ch3, sl sc], ch 3, [tc 2, dc] in same sc, sc 1, ch 3, [tc 2, dc] in same sc

Horns (make 2)
R1: 4 sc
R2: sc aroiund (4)
R3: *inc, sc* around (6)

Body
R1: 6 sc
R2: inc each sc (12)
R3: *inc, sc 1* around (18)
R4: *inc, sc 2* around (24)
R5: *inc, sc 3* around (30)
R6-15: sc around (30)
R16: *dec, sc 3* around (24)
R17: *dec, sc 2* around (18)
R18: *dec, sc 1* around (12)
R19: *dec, sc 4* around (10)

Stomach Patch
R1: ch 3, turn
R2-4: sc all
R5: inc, sc, inc (5)
R6-7: sc all
R8: inc, sc 3, inc (7)
R9-13: sc all
R14: dec, sc 3, dec (5)
R15: dec, sc, dec (3)
Now stitch around the patch and make a nice border (mine was about 30 sc I think...)

Arms (make 2)
R1: 8 sc
R2-4: sc around
R5: hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sl sc 4
R6: hdc 4, sl sc 4
R7: sc around
R8: sl sc 5, *[ch 3, sl sc] in same sc* repeat in last 3 scs (8 sc)
R9: *dec* around (or just sew the hole shut after stuffing)

Feet (make 2)
R1: 8 sc
R2: *inc* around (16)
R3: sc, [hdc , dc, hdc] in same sc, sl sc, [sc, hdc, dc, hdc] in same sc, sl sc, [sc, hdc, dc, hdc] in same sc, sl sc, sc 9 (24)
R4: *sl sc 2, sc 3* three times, sl sc 1, sc 8 (24)
R5: sc, sl sc 1, sc 3, *sl sc 2, sc 3* twice, sl sc 1, sc 8 (24)
R6: sc 2, *dec over 3, sl sc 2* twice, dec over 3, sc 9 (18)
R7: sc 1, dec 5, sc 7 (13)
Sew hole closed.

Tail
R1: 6 sc
R2-3: sc around
R4: inc 2, sc 4 (8 sc)
R5-6: sc around
R7: sc, inc 2, sc 5 (10)
R8-9: sc around
R10: sc 2, inc 2, sc 6 (12)
R11-12: sc around
R13: sc 3, inc 2, sc 7 (14)
R14-15: sc around
R16: sc 4, inc 2, sc 8 (16)
R17-18: sc around

Wing - Big Triangle (make 2)
R1: ch 2, turn
R2: inc, ch 1, turn (3?)
R3: inc, sc 3, ch 1, turn (4)
R4: inc, sc 4, ch 1, turn (5)
R5: sc 5

Wing - Small Triangle (make 2)
R1: ch2, turn
R2: inc, ch 1, turn (3?)
R3: sc 3, ch 1, turn (3)
R3: inc, sc 3, ch 1, turn (4)

Wing - Outer Tube (make 2)
R1: 5 sc
R2-9: sc around
R10: hdc, dc, hdc, sc 2 (5)
R11-17: sc around

Wing - Middle Tube (make 2)
R1: 5 sc
R2-6: sc around
Sew to outer tube, around the middle of it. Then sew the triangles in the gaps.

Очень забавные дракончики, вязанные крючком... вот только никак не соберусь перевести  руководство на русский... по этому выкладываю так как есть, позже сделаю перевод...=)

Head:
Using yarn colour A
Row 1: ch 2, then 6 sc into the first chain.
Row 2: 2sc into each of the sc (12 stitches)
Row 3: [2sc into the first sc, sc into next sc] repeat around (18 stitches)
Row 4: [2sc into the first sc, sc into the next 2 sc] repeat around (24 stitches)
Row 5: [2sc into the first sc, sc into the next 3 sc] repeat around (30 stitches)
Row 6 to Row 10: sc into each sc around (30 stitches)
Row 11: [sc2tog, then sc into the next 3 sc] around (24 stitches)
Row 12: [sc2tog, then sc into the next 2 sc] around (18 stitches)
Row 13: [sc2tog, then sc into next sc] around (12 stitches)
Start stuffing the head as firmly as you can, you're just making a basic ball as the face and eyes will be attached later.
Row 14: sc2tog around, cut and finish off leaving enough yarn to sew the hole shut. Weave in loose end.
It should look like a perfect little round ball.

Snout/face:
Row 1: ch 3, then 3 sc into the first chain from hook, sc into the next sc, 6 sc into the next sc. Turn
work around 180 degrees so that the bottom of the row now becomes the top row, and sc in the next sc, and 4 sc into the next sc (14 stitches)
Row 2: sc into the back loops of each sc (14 stitches)
Row 3 and Row 4: sc into each sc (14 stitches)
Row 5: [2 sc into the first sc, sc into the next sc] repeat around (21 stitches)
Row 6: [2 sc into the first sc, then sc into the next 2 sc] repeat around (28 stitches)
Row 7: [2 sc into the first sc, then sc into the next 3 sc] repeat around (35 stitches)
Row 8: sc into each sc around (35 stitches)
Row 9: [2 sc into each sc] for the first 15 sc, then sc2tog around (40 stitches)
The face should have a flatter, broader side on the top half and a curved rounded part on the bottom half.

Eyebrows:
Make two of these! Use yarn colour A. Alternatively, you could use yarn colour B for an interesting contrast.
Row 1: ch 2, then 6 sc into the first chain. Join with a sl st, then finish off and weave in all the ends.
They should look like 2 tiny flowers. The safety eyes will go through the little hole in the middle. Next, the eyes are attached onto the snout/face and the backs of the safety eyes are then attached onto the back of the snout/face. So it should be layered, from the outside in it will go: safety eyes, eyebrows, snout/face, then safety eye backing. If you aim to have the centres of the eyes line up with the outer edge of the nostrils, it should be about right, but you can play with this depending on how you want your little guy to look.

Body:
Using yarn colour A
Row 1: ch 2, then 6 sc into the first chain.
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 stitches)
Row 3: [2 sc into first sc, then sc into the next sc] repeat around (18 stitches)
Row 4: [2 sc into the first sc, then sc into the next 2 sc] repeat around (24 stitches)
Row 5: [2 sc into the first sc, then sc into the next 3 sc] repeat around (30 stitches)
Row 6 to Row 8: sc into each sc around (30 stitches)
Row 9: [sc2tog, then sc into the next 3 sc] repeat around (24 stitches)
Row 10 and Row 11: sc in each sc around (24 stitches)
Row 12: [sc2tog, then sc into the next 2 sc] repeat around (18 stitches)
Start adding stuffing at this point, make sure it's packed in as firm as possible.
Row 13 to Row 15: sc into each sc around. (18 stitches)
Row 16: [sc2tog, then sc into the next sc] repeat around (12 stitches)
Row 17: sc into each sc around.
Finish off, making sure you leave a long enough piece of yarn so you can attach the head later. Add more stuffing and shape the body in your hand so there's no lumps or ridges.

Legs:
Make 2 of these!
Starting with yarn colour B (the contrasting colour)
Row 1: ch 2, then 6 sc into the first chain.
Row 2: 2 sc into each sc around (12 stitches)
Row 3: sc in each sc around, break off yarn colour B (12 stitches)
Row 4 to Row 5: Join yarn colour A, then sc in each sc around. (12 stitches)
You'll need to add a little bit of stuffing at this point, the little legs get narrow and it gets too hard to
poke it down into the foot part.
Row 6: sc2tog around (6 stitches)
Row 7 to Row 8: sc into each sc around. (6 stitches)

Arms:
He'll need 2 of these, too, in yarn colour A.
Row 1: ch 2, then 6 sc into the first ch.
Row 2: sc in each back loop only (6 stitches)
Row 3 to Row 6: sc in each sc around (6 stitches)
Cut and finish off, making sure you leave enough yarn to sew them onto the body.

Tail:
Use yarn colour A.
Row 1: ch 2, then 4 sc into the first ch.
Row 2: sc into each sc around (4 stitches)
Row 3: 2 sc into the first sc, then sc into the next sc, repeat. (6 stitches)
Row 4 to Row 6: sc into each sc around (6 stitches)
Row 7: [2 sc into the first sc, then sc into the next sc] repeat around (9 stitches)
Row 8: sc into each sc around (9 stitches)
Row 9 to Row 10: [2 sc into the first sc, then sc into the next 2 sc] repeat around (16 stitches)
Row 11: sc into each sc around (16 stitches)
Cut and finish off, leaving lots of yarn to attach it to the body. Weave in the loose end from the tip of the tail. Stuff with polyester filling, making it fat at the open end. The narrow tip of the tail
should be left unfilled, so you can pinch it and shape it as you like.


Assembly:

Start with the snout/face and head. The head should have one side that looks neater than the other side, so use the neater side as the back of the head (you'll see the back of the head but we're covering up the front with the face). So with the less neater side facing you, lay the snout/face over the ball like a mask. Stretch it and play with it until you're happy with the position of the face. Then stitch it onto the head using the yarn you left attached for this purpose! Weave in all loose ends.

Next, attach the head to the body using the length of yarn left on the body. You may need to play
with the angle of the head a bit and be careful when attaching the head, so that the face is straight and facing forward. Weave in any loose ends.

The tail goes on next. It should be placed low down in the very middle of his back so that it sits
level with what is essentially his bottom! Sew it on then weave in loose ends.
Next are the little legs. They should be attached low down on the front of the body, face forwards
and angle out a little bit. If you look at the bottom of the dragon, the feet and the tail should make a triangle shape – this balances him so that he can sit up on his own. Getting there! The arms are the last little appendages to attach, they should go on his body about 1cm (half an inch) under his neck. They should be on the same angle as the legs. Weave in all the ends.

All that's left now is his spines. These are stitched directly onto his body using contrasting colour
yarn B. To do this you will need to crochet a foundation chain from the tip of his tail up to the top of his head.

Row 1: Insert hook into a stitch on the tip of the tail. Yarn over and bring it through, chain 1 then sc along the length of the body. Try to space them fairly evenly, don't worry about an exact number of sc because you'll need to make the sc where ever they will fit!
Row 2: Turn him so you will now work back towards the tail. Ch 3 then sc back into the same place so it makes a little ridge.
[sl st into the next sc, sc into the next sc, ch 3 and then sc back into the same place] repeat the
length of the body.

Cut off and weave in loose ends. You should now have a completed dragon with little spines!