String style backpacks are everywhere for Fall, from ripstop athletic gear to high-end leather bags. They're compact and lightweight but can hold plenty. Ours is made in two bright fabrics from Ann Kelle's Beatbox collection for Robert Kaufman fabrics, which we found at Fabric.com. To give our design even more functionality, we added unique front crossover pockets, which create four individual sections to hold smaller items.

Our Beatbox backpack is modeled by an energetic seven-year-old, but the size and shape would work for any age. It's style that's ready to hit the road: a modern punch of color with a retro design. Tote it to the gym, fill it up with necessities for a day hike or picnic, slip it on for a bike ride to the farmer's market. Fusible fleece between the layers softens and stabilizes, and the adjustable cording shoulder straps, which thread through bottom eyelets, make going smaller or larger a snap.

Our thanks to Fabric.com for providing both the super cute fabric and the fun fold-over elastic in a vibrant chevron pattern that binds the front pockets. If you've never visited Fabric.com or haven't been back in awhile, there's always something new to discover; like the Deal of the Day on their home page; as well as the Just Arrived section for the latest bargains; and special featured items, like the super popular Cotton + Steel collections. 

Our backpack finishes at approximately 15½" tall x 12½" wide. 

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Memory Craft 6300)

Fabric and Other Supplies

• 1 yard of 44" + cotton fabric for the pack exterior front and pockets: we used Beatbox in Bright Green by Ann Kelle for Robert Kaufman Fabrics (0337198) from Fabric.com
• 1 yard of 44" + fabric for the pack exterior back, drawcord casing and lining: we used Beatbox Headphones in Bright Green by Ann Kelle for Robert Kaufman Fabrics (0337200) from Fabric.com
• ½ yard of 45" medium-weight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon 809 Décor-Bond
• ½ yard of 45" one-sided fusible fleece; we used Pellon 987F Fusible Fleece
• 1 yard of ⅝" coordinating fold-over elastic: we used Chevron in Teal (0341999) from Fabric.com
• 4 yards of coordinating ¼" cording: we used light blue, purchased locally
• ONE large eyelet and TWO extra-large eyelets; we used Dritz Eyelets in Nickel in Large (1/4") and Extra-Large (7/16"), both in nickel and both offered as eyelets with an installation tool
• All-purpose sewing thread to match fabric and trim
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• See-through ruler
• Straight pins
• Iron and ironing board
• Pressing cloth
• Large safety pin or hemostats to pull cording
• To finish the ends of the cording: lighter or match to melt ends (if polyester), or seam sealant, or transparent tape

Getting Started

1. From the fabric for the exterior front and pockets (Beatbox in our sample), cut the following:
   ONE 15½" high x 14" wide rectangle for the main exterior front panel 
   FOUR 13" high x 14" wide rectangles for the pockets
2. From the fabric for the exterior back, drawcord casing and lining (Headphones in our sample), cut the following
   ONE 15½" high x 14" wide rectangle for the back exterior
   TWO 15½" high x 14" wide rectangles for the lining
   TWO 4" high x 14" wide strips for the casings
   NOTE: We recommend fussy cutting all the fabric, but it is particularly important for casing strips. The back casing channel will look best if it appears to be an extension of the back panel. 
3. From the cording, cut ONE 6" length for the hanger loop, then cut the remaining cording into TWO equal lengths.
   NOTE: Tape all the ends to prevent the cording from unraveling.
4. From the fusible fleece, cut TWO 15½" x 14" rectangles.
5. From the fusible interfacing, cut TWO 13" x 14" rectangles.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Prepare the front of the backpack

1. Find the 15½" x 14" front panel, the 15½" x 14" back panel and the two 15½" x 14" pieces of fusible fleece.
2. Using a pressing cloth and following manufacturer's instructions, fuse a fleece panel to the wrong side of each fabric panel. Make sure the edges of the fleece and fabric are flush on all sides of both pieces. 
      
3. Find the four 13" x 14" pocket panels and the two 13" x 14" pieces of fusible interfacing.  
4. Break the pocket panels into two pairs of two. Place the two pairs wrong sides together with an interfacing piece between the layers. Do not fuse anything yet.
5. Stack the layers together: fabric, interfacing, fabric, fabric, interfacing, fabric. Make sure the fabric motifs are all lined up properly.
   
6. Shuffle the stack so the edges of all six layers are flush on all sides. Place the stack flat on your work surface. 
7. Measure 6" down from the top along the right side and make a mark. Align a see-through ruler from the upper left corner down and across the front of the stack to the 6" mark. Draw a diagonal line.
   
8. Cut through all the layers along the drawn diagonal line. 
   
9. Separate the stack back into two pocket sandwiches. Following the manufacturer’s instruction, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of one fabric panel in each sandwich then re-layer as two pocket pairs, wrong sides together.
10. Machine baste along the diagonal edge of each pair, staying very close to the cut edge.
11. Cut two 15" lengths of fold-over elastic. Wrap the diagonal edge of each basted pocket pair and stitch in place. Stay as close to the edge of the elastic binding as possible, but make sure you are still catching both the front and back. Trim away the excess elastic at each end. 
    
12. Flip over one pair so the diagonal cuts are now mirror images of one another. Layer the two pockets one on top of the other, aligning the bottom and side edges. Mark and set the one smaller eyelet at the intersection where the pockets cross. The eyelet should be set down just far enough to clear the binding. If you are new to working with eyelets/grommets, check out our full step-by-step tutorial: How To Install Metal Grommets (don't let the name fool you; an eyelet is simply a small grommet).
    
13. Find the main exterior front panel, which you should have already fused with a layer of fleece. Place it right side up and flat on your work surface.
14. Place the pocket unit right side up on the exterior panel, aligning the bottom and sides.
15. Using the installed eyelet as your guide, draw a vertical line from the bottom of the eyelet down to the bottom of the layered panels. 
    
16. Thread the machine with thread to best match the fabric in the top and bobbin. 
17. Stitch along the drawn vertical line, locking your stitch just below the eyelet. If possible, for the cleanest look, use a lock stitch. If this is not a feature on your machine, leave the thread tails long and tie them to secure at the back of the front unit. 
     
18. This completes the front of the bag. 

Prepare the back of the backpack

1. Find the 15½ x 14 exterior back panel, which you should have already fused with a layer of fleece. Place it right side up and flat on your work surface. 
2. Measure to locate the exact center along the top edge. Find the 6" length of cording. This will become the hanger loop. With the center mark as your guide, pin the cording in place, creating an even loop. Our loop ends were approximately 1" to either side of the center mark. Let the taped ends extend beyond the top raw edge.
   

3. Stitch across the loop ends to secure, running this short seam approximately ¼" from the raw edge. Trim away the taped ends so the cord lays flush against the fabric.

     

Prepare and place the draw cord casings

1. If necessary, re-thread the machine with thread to best match the casing/back exterior/lining fabric in the top and bobbin.
2. Find the two 4" x 14" casing strips. On each strip, make a narrow, double turn hem along the 4" edges. To do this, fold in the raw edge ¼" and press. Fold in an additional ¼" and press again. Stitch the narrow hem in place, running the seam close to the folded edge. 
   
3. Fold each hemmed strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press well.
   
4. Find the front and back exterior panels. 
5. Place one folded casing strip along the top edge of the front panel, aligning the raw edges of the casing with the raw edge of the front panel, and centering the casing so it sits ½" from each side. Pin the casing in place.
   
6. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch the casing in place. 
   
7. Repeat to attach the remaining casing strip to the back exterior panel.
   
8. Press the seam allowances down, away from the casing.
   

Assemble front to back

1. Place the front and back exterior panels right sides together. Align the side and bottom edges and the hemmed ends of the casings. 
2. Open up the pressed casing seam allowances so you can stitch all the way to the top edge of the exterior panels.  
3. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides and across the bottom. 
   
4. Remember to pivot at the corners and be very careful to make sure you pull the casings out of the way at the top. 
   
5. Your side seams should run right next to the casings, but should not penetrate the casings.
   
6. Leave the exterior bag wrong side out.

Prepare and attach the lining

1. Find the two 15½" x 14" lining pieces. Place the lining pieces right sides together and pin along both sides and across the bottom, leaving a 5-6" opening along the bottom for turning. 
2. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides and across the bottom, remembering to lock your seam on either side of the 5-6" opening. Clip the corners and press open the seam allowances.
   
3. Turn the lining right side out. 
4. Find the exterior bag, which should still be wrong side out. Slip the lining inside the bag exterior so the exterior and lining are now right sides together. Pin together around the entire top edge.
   
5. Be very careful to match the side seams, opening up the seam allowance so it lays flat. 
   
6. Stitch all around the top edge, following right on top of the previously stitched casing seam.
   
7. Pull out the lining and check to be sure the casings did not get caught in the stitching.
   
8. Reach in through the 5-6" opening left in the bottom of the lining and pull the backpack right side out. 
   
9. The top corners should be completely sealed and the casings free.
   
10. With the lining still pulled out, press in the raw edges of the bottom opening so they are flush with sewn seam and pin in place.
    
11. Edgestitch the opening closed.
    
12. Push the lining down into place inside the backpack. Press the lining down and the casings up. 
    

Bottom eyelets and draw cord

1. Mark and cut a hole in each of the bottom corners. The center of the eyelet opening should be approximately 1" in from the side and 1" up from the bottom at each corner. Remember to place the bag face down on the table to set the eyelet.
   NOTE: You are inserting through quite a few layers, which is why we used the extra-large eyelets for the corners. The neck of the eyelet will fit through, but you have to use some force to hammer the top in place. As mentioned above, if your are new to working with eyelets/grommets, check out our tutorial: How To Install Metal Grommets.   
   
2. Attach a large safety pin or a pair of hemostats to one end of one length of cording.
3. Thread the cording through the top casings of the bag. Go from right to left through the front casing, then from left to right through the back casing. 
   
4. Reverse to thread the second length of cording: left to right through the front and then right to left through the back.
5. Pull the the cording so the ends are even on both sides.
6. Thread each pair of cording ends through its corner eyelet from back to front. 
7. If possible try the backpack on its intended wearer to adjust the length of the string straps. 
8. Tie the ends together into a double knot. Finish the ends in your favorite manner. If your cording is polyester, you can melt then ends with a lighter to seal. You could also use a seam sealant or wrap the ends with a transparent tape as we did.  
   

At long last, the promised Bagsket Tutorial.
 

First off, thank you Claudine for posting her inspirational bag.
Full credit must also go to Diana. She and I worked through the first bag together and her guidance was invaluable. If you’re a knitter, make sure to check out her amazing FREE knitting patterns.
And finally, thanks susankg53 for the name…it’s perfect!

This is a great project for your scraps and I hope you have fun with it. As I’ve stated before, I am NOT an expert seamstress by any means, so I’m sure I’m doing things bass ackwards all over the place.

I would love love LOVE to see what you come up with.

This is a long tutorial with a fair number of pics. If anything is unclear, please email me (foofanagle at gmail dot com) and I’ll be happy to clarify. For those of you who are quick and crafty, here’s a summary of the steps…it may be all you need.

SUMMARY
Cut and assemble pieces
Sew basket (bottom, side, together)
Sew handles and add to basket
Add trim to pocket, sew pocket to inside lining, sew pockets
Iron drawstring flap and sew down top ends for neat drawstring opening
Sew down drawstring flap
Sew drawstring bottom to interior lining top
Sew lining to basket
Trim top of Bagsket and thread drawstring
Ta da!

Read on for the full tutorial in all of it’s badly photographed glory. (you can click on the photos to see a larger version)

Did I mention I’d love to see any bags you make using this tutorial?

::Bagsket – The Tutorial::

PIECES (for a bag that approx. 8 inches in diameter and 8.5 inches tall – for 12in diameter bag, see bottom of post)

Basket
9 inch circle of interfacing
9 inch circle of exterior fabric
29.3in x 9in interfacing
29.3in x 9in exterior fabric (top pieced strip = 29.3in x 4.5 in and bottom exterior strip = 29.3in x 5.5 in sewn together lengthwise with a ½ inch seam allowance.)

Bag
9 inch circle of interior fabric
29.3in x 9in interior fabric
29.3in x 4.5in interior fabric (pocket)
30.3in x 7in interior fabric (drawstring top)

Handles/Trim
2in x 15in (x4) of handle fabric
2in x 14in (x2) of interfacing
30 in of pocket lining double-fold trim
30 in of exterior top double-fold trim
30 in of rickrack, ribbon or trim

NOTES
Use a heavy interfacing like Timtex. I didn’t make it fusible, but that could potentially help when sewing the fabric to the interfacing.
Seam allowances for basting and seaming are different to ensure basting stitches don’t show

PUT IT ALL TOGETHER

Assemble your pieced strip. Have fun with this. It doesn’t really matter how many fabrics or angles etc that you use as long as you end up with the correct sized piece at the end. You can make the whole exterior pieced or use just two fabrics and on and on. If desired, sew decorative trim to exterior fabric. Play now (because the rest is a bit of work!)

Basket Construction:
Pin exterior bottom fabric to interfacing circle (wrong side of fabric to interfacing)

Baste together with a 1/3in seam allowance. We’re basically just holding the fabric to the interfacing. If you have fusible interfacing, you can skip the basting.

Pin exterior fabric to the interfacing rectangle
Baste together with a 1/3in seam allowance

With right sides facing, pin and sew the short ends of the side piece together with a ½ in seam allowance, forming a cylinder
Press seam to one side

Mark the 4 points on both the bottom and side piece.
(You can fold the circle/cylinder in half, mark the crease at each end, open and refold so the pins are together and mark the creases again.)

Line up a pin on the bottom with a pin on the side and pin together (making sure the interfacing side is on the outside on both the side and bottom)

Line up the remaining markers and pin the bottom to the side. Pin generously to ensure the pieces don’t slip apart as you sew.

Sew together the bottom and side piece with a 1/2in seam allowance. Make sure your seam “covers” the basting stitches (that’s why there’s a difference in the seam allowance when basting vs. seaming. Or you can do it haphazardly like I did and pick out the basting stitches later. That’s sooo much fun!
Here’s what the stitching should kinda look like…

This will take a bit of fiddling and manipulating. When you sew over the side seam, you may need to get a “running start” on your machine so that it powers through. If you have a walking foot…use it!

Turn the bucket right side out. I iron the sides of the bucket once more to smooth out the wrinkles that are inevitable when you turn the bucket.

Handle construction:
(I’m sure there’s a better way to do this…but this is how I made mine. And apparently I forgot to take pics of this step…but is pretty much exactly what I did for the headbands.)
With right sides of handle fabric facing, place the interfacing strip on top and pin all together
Sew down each side (length wise) wish a ¼ in seam allowance
Trim the seam allowance down to 1/8 in or pink the seam allowance making sure not to snip the stitches
Turn the tube right side out so that the interfacing is between the handle fabric now
Press
Sew down the side of the handle with a 1/8in seam allowance. When you reach an end, tuck the fabric ends in, making sure one side wraps around the raw end of the interfacing.
Turn the corner and sew the ends, turn and sew up the other length of the handle with the 1/8in seam allowance.
Repeat the end treatment on the other end of the handle, sew to your starting point and snip your thread.

Repeat for the second handle.

Attach handles to the side of the basket
Ends of handles should be about 3.5 inches from the top of the basket and about 4 inches apart from each other.
Pin handle ends in place

Sew handles down in a reinforcing square.

It takes a bit of mushing and smooshing to get this done, but you can do it! Iron the sides of the bucket one more time if you think they need it.

PHEW!

Bag Construction

Sew trim to the top of the pocket edge

Sew pocket to lining along the bottom seam and sew (trimmed edge is towards the top)

Sew pocket lines down at whatever intervals you’d like. I like some narrow and some wide pockets to help hold a variety of notions and tools.
Drawstring Top:
Fold in both sides 1/2” and iron (this is so you have a nice opening for your drawstring)
Fold down ¼” from the top of the fabric and iron. If you’re using a print, you should be folding so that the wrong side of the fabric is inside the fold.

Fold down another 1” from the top and iron. This creates the pocket for you to pull the drawstring through.

Sew down the length of the drawstring fold using a 1/8” seam allowance from the folded edge.

With “inside” sides facing, pin the drawstring fabric to the top edge of the side lining and sew together

Line up edges of the inside lining and sew together at the ends (make sure the pockets are in).

**NOTE** Do not sew together the drawstring opening and make sure to line up the drawstring seam line and the top of the pockets when you sew together

Now for a nice clean look, do a pseudo-French seam along the drawstring flap (you don’t need to go all the way down the lining since only the drawstring flap shows both sides of the fabric.)
Basically, fold/roll the seam of the flap back onto itself. Press it down, pin it and sew it down so that the seam and raw edge is enclosed.

(Yeah, I know my instructions on this part are particularly bad.)

As you did with the bottom of the bucket, mark the 4 points of the bottom round and the bottom of the inside lining.

Pin the bottom round to the lining and sew together with a ½” seam allowance

This is what it looks like with the INSIDE out (when you put it in the basket, you’ll want the pockets on the inside.)

Guess what! You’re ALMOST there! Let’s bring it all together now.

Tuck the lining into the bucket. Make sure the drawstring flap is tucked inside the lining.
Pin the lining to the bucket all the way around the top.

Sew along the top (you’re sewing through the bucket and the drawstring/lining side edges) to secure the lining to the bucket using a ¼” seam allowance. The key here is to sew close enough to the top of the bucket so that the stitches won’t show after you apply the binding.

Are you still hanging in there?!

FINALLY…line up the end of the wide trim with the bucket side seam. Sew the trim to the top of the bagsket. Make sure you catch both sides of the trim as you go. Take your time on this…I recommend pinning (I didn’t pin and I regret it since I didn’t catch a couple of spots of the inside trim.) When you reach the end, fold the end of the trim under so you have a nice neat end when you get back to the side seam.

Guess what! You’re all done! CONGRATS!

For a Larger Bag (12 in in diameter and 12 in tall)
Basket
12 inch diameter circle of interfacing
12 inch diameter circle of exterior fabric
38.7in x 12.5 in interfacing
38.7in x 12.5 in exterior fabric (top pieced strip = 38.7in x 5.5 in and bottom exterior strip = 38.7in x 7 in sewn together lengthwise with a ½ inch seam allowance.)

Bag
12 inch diameter circle of interior fabric
38.7in x 12.5 inch interior fabric
38.7in x 4.5 inch interior fabric (pocket)
39.7in x 9 inch interior fabric (drawstring top)

Handles/Trim
2in x 15in (x4) of handle fabric
2in x 14in (x2) of interfacing
38 in of pocket lining double-fold trim
38 in of exterior top double-fold trim
38 in of rickrack, ribbon or trim

I’m sure I made this more complicated than it has to be. If you have better ways of doing parts (or all) of this project, please let me know. I’d love to hear it!

Не часто бывает, что, увидев какую-то идею, тут же бросаешься её выполнять. Но с этими сумочками так и получилось. Просто, я очень люблю переделки))) Простые, полезные, нужные.

Подобные сумочки подойду:

-детям для хранения карандашей, заколок, мозаики, конструкторов (если использовать 5л бутылку)

-взрослым для хранения прищепок, рукодельных мелочей, формочек для печенья и проч.

Нам понадобятся:

• пластиковая бутылка
• ткань 
• люверсы
• лента или шнурок
• свечка и иголка с пластиковым верхом(или тонкое шило)

1. Отрежьте верх у бутылки на нужной вам высоте.
Наденьте резинку, чтобы проделать отверстия на одной линии.
Нагретой иголкой или шилом делайте отверстия через 2мм.

2. Определяем размер верха из ткани.
У меня ширина 26см + 2см припуск, высота 15 см с учетом припусков.

3.  Заутюжьте складки. Снизу на 1 см, сверху подверните 2 раза - на 0,5 см и на 3 см(чтобы спрятать необработанный край). Поставьте люверсы. Прострочите верхний край.

4. Теперь боковой шов. Отступите ровно 1 см от края. На фото низ подвернут, но нужно прострочить его в развернутом виде. Заутюжьте шов.

5. Теперь пришиваем верх к бутылке. Выверните его наизнанку и наденьте на бутылку так, чтобы подвернутый край проходил четко под отверстиями. Затем поднимите его - заутюженный сгиб должен оказаться на 1 ММ ниже отверстий. Пришиваем швом назад иголку.

6. Поднимаем тканьь вверх, продеваем ленту или шнурок. Хорошо бы одеть ограничители, например, бусинки, если пользоваться будут дети)))

Еще одна интересная идея для сумочки или детского рюкзачка — в виде рыбки или мышки. Каждый ребенок обрадуется такой обновке! 
Сумочки своими руками: