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Linguine dollydolls

The fun part about these dolls is that you can really decorate them in any way you like. So, rather than telling you exactly how I made mine, I'm going to give you a description of the basic doll pattern first. After that, I'll go into the specific elements that I used on my dolls. If you want to use those specific instructions, read them carefully before starting to on the basic doll. I hope to see your creative interpretations of the pattern!

Materials:

- Yarn in various colors of your choice.
- Embroidery floss or yarn for the face.
- Sewing thread that matches the color of the yarn for the hair.
- A hook appropriate to the weight of the yarn. I personally used fingering weight yarn and a 2.0 mm hook, which resulted in a 8.5 inch doll.
- Yarn needle.
- Polyfill.

Note: When switching colors, the last loop you pull through the stitch before the switch already has to be in the new color.

Basic doll instructions

Head and body

R1: Using the skin color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (18)
R4: sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, around (24)
R5: sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, around (30)
R6: Work even (30)
R7: sc inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, around (36)
R8-R12: Work even (36)
R13: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 4 st, around (30)
R14: Work even (30)
R15: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 3 st, around (24)
R16: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 2 st, around (18) Stuff the head firmly. Change to the body color of your choice.
R17: Work even (18)
R18: sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, around (21)
R19-R25: Work even (21)
R26: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 5 st, around (18) Stuff firmly.
R27: sc next 2 tog, sc in next st, around (12) Stuff more.
R28: sc next 2 tog, around (6) Fasten off and weave in the end. Embroider a face according to your own taste, or look at the pictures for inspiration.

Legs

R1: Using the leg color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3-R5: Work even (12)
R6: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 10 st (11)
R7: Work even (11)
R8: sc in next 5 st, sc next 2 tog, sc in next 4 st (10)
R9: Work even (10)
R10: sc in next 3 st, sc next 2 tog, sc in next 5 st (9)
R11: Work even (9)
R12: sc in next 7 st, sc next 2 tog (8)
R13: Work even (8)
R14: sc in next 2 st, sc next 2 tog, sc in next 4 st (7)
R15: Work even (7) Stuff the lower leg firmly at the bottom, and more lightly towards the top. The rest of the leg will be so thin, it doesn't need stuffing.
R16: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 tog, sc in next st (6)
R17-R44: Work even (6). Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Make another leg, then sew both to the body.

Arms

R1: Using the skin color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, around (8)
R3-R5: Work even (8)
R6: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 6 st (7)
R7: Work even (7) If neccessary, put a small amount of stuffing in the hand. The rest of the arm will be so thin, it doesn't need stuffing.
R8: sc in next 2 st, sc next 2 tog, sc in next 3 st (6)
R9-R22: Work even (6) Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Make another arm, then sew both to the body.

Specific instructions

A-line mini dress

Make the head like in the basic pattern until it's time to change to the body color. Change to the body color, but don't clip the skin color yet, just leave it hanging for now. Continue as follows:

R18: In the front loops only: sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, around (21)

You've now laid down the base round for the dress. Don't clip the dress color, but pick up the skin color again.

Crochet along the inside now, in the back loops that you left in the previous round, without increasing, making 18 stitches. This way you'll have two layers of crochet on top of each other, namely a skin layer, and a dress layer. Continue crocheting the skin layer as follows:

R19-R20: Work even (18)
R21: sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, around (21)
R22-R24: Work even (21) Now change color for the panties. This is important, otherwise your doll will be very indecent under that little mini dress.
R25: Work even (21)
R26: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 5 st, around (18) Stuff firmly.
R27: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next st, around (12). Stuff more.
R28: sc next 2 st tog, around (6) Fasten off and weave in the end.

Now go back to where you left off the dress layer. Continue as follows:

R19: Work even (21)
R20: sc inc in next st, sc in next 6 st, around (24)
R21 Work even (24)
R22: sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st, around (27)
R23 Work even (27)
R24: sc inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, around (30)
R25 Work even (30)
R26: sc inc in next st, sc in next 9 st, around (33)
R27 Work even (33)
R28: sc inc in next st, sc in next 10 st, around (36)
R29: sc in next 2 st, ss in next 3 st. Fasten off and weave in the end.

Ballerina skirt

Finish the head and body according to the basic pattern. After that, the skirt is crocheted directly onto the body, around the stitches of R24.

R1: sc in every st around (21)
R2: sc inc in next st, around (42)
R3: sc inc in next st, around (84)
R4: ss in next 2 st. Fasten off and weave in the end.

If you think crocheting around the body is too fiddly, you could also make the skirt as a separate piece and sew it on. In that case, start with a foundation chain of 21 and join with a slip stitch. After that, continue with the skirt pattern as instructed.

Stripy thigh-high stockings

Make the legs according to the basic pattern, but change colors along the way. For the first three rounds, use stripe color A. For the next two rounds, use stripe color B. Continue alternating between the stripe colors every two rounds. However, don't just make your color changes at the beginning of the round all the time, because then the color changes will start twisting around the leg. Instead, make the color changes so that they form a straight line. After a total of 15 stripes, change to skin color and finish off the leg. When sewing on the legs, make sure that the color changes are along the inside of the leg. This way, they will be less apparent.

Knee-high boots with stripy thigh-high stockings

Make the legs according to the basic pattern, but change colors along the way. For the first three rounds, use whatever color you want the sole of the boot to be. For the next 12 rounds, use the boot color. For the next two rounds, use stripe color A. For the next two rounds, use stripe color B. Continue alternating between the stripe colors every two rounds. However, don't just make your color changes at the beginning of the round all the time, because then the color changes will start twisting around the leg. Instead, make the color changes so that they form a straight line. After a total of 7 stripes, change to skin color and finish off the leg. When sewing on the legs, make sure that the color changes are along the inside of the leg. This way, they will be less apparent.

Arms with short sleeves

Crochet the arms according to the basic pattern, but make the last two rounds in the sleeve color.

Arms with arm warmers

Make the arms according to the basic patterns, but change colors along the way. For the first three rounds, use skin color. For the next two rounds, use stripe color A. For the next two rounds, use stripe color B. Continue alternating between the stripe colors every two rounds. However, don't just make your color changes at the beginning of the round all the time, because then the color changes will start twisting around the arm. Instead, make the color changes so that they form a straight line. After a total of 5 stripes, change to skin color and finish off the arm. When sewing on the arms, make sure that the color changes are along the bottom of the arm. This way, they will be less apparent.

Afro hair

The afro hairdo consists of two parts: the front part which has corn rows, and the back part which is puffy. To make the corn rows, simply make long stitches with black yarn, spaced apart slightly. For the puffy part, we'll sew on small loops of yarn with sewing thread. To start, attach the yarn to the top front of the head, straight off the skein. Weave in the short end. Now make a small loop around your index finger, and sew it to the head. Two stitches should be enough for that: one around the yarn, and one right through. Continue to make loops like that, in a spiral following the head line all around the head. When making loops around the side and bottom of the head, make the loops around your pinkie finger instead. This way, you'll subtly shape the hair.

When you get back to the top, continue making another spiral of hair along the previous one, just close enough the provide coverage. It took me three spirals to cover the whole head, but it may depend on the yarn how much you'll need. After you have full coverage, cut the yarn off the skein and weave in the end.

To make a little hair band, chain 38 and join with a slip stitch. Fasten off. You could weave in the ends, or simply tie them into a little bow to finish it off.

Pigtail hair

Take the yarn for the hair and wrap it around a book, about 50 times. Take the loops off the book and cut through the loops once. Now you'll have 50 hairs of equal lenght. Take a hair, fold it lenghtwise to find the middle. Then, use sewing thread in a color that matches the hair to sew it to the top middle on the head, starting at the hair line. Two stitches should be enough for that: one around the yarn, and one right through. Keep sewing on hairs, going in a straight line down to the bottom middle of the head. Now that the hair is secured at the parting, pull the hair into two pig tails. After that, sew the pig tails tightly to the side of the head. Tie bows around the pig tails to finish it off.

Enjoi!